So I read that AMC is buying CKEC out at $30 a share. Does that mean my account will be credited with $30 for every CKEC share I have, or will they be rolled into AMC stock?
may touch 40 by the end of the week. shouldnt matter though, fed meets in a week, they aint raisin shit.
So would people recommend to get out to cut losses while they can if they bought it around 9 or 10? Asking for a friend of course. And very small amounts of money.
So Tradeking sent me an email this morning letting me know id be charged a $50 "inactivity fee" if I don't make a commission based trade in the next couple months. First off, thanks to Tradeking for giving me the push I need to consolidate all my stock $$ in one of the free accounts (will be Robinhood for me). Second, below is a list of my current holdings on TK. I want to cash out at least one of them in the next 2 months. Which one seems best to exit at this time? AAPL AMC COP GILD SDRL ZOES I guess the question is which one is most likely to be negative moving forward?
definitely feels like it. we unwind and another CB carries the load. I wonder if we'll just keep passing the responsibility back and forth, at least until everyone understands what China is up to. I think the Corp bond buying is new though, but I'm not sure what purpose it serves ...
just opened up an acct with them what questions you have? also if you sign up let me use my referral link and I'll love you forever you'd get 5k extra managed for free
pm sent I did a bunch of research on what I wanted to do as I had a 401k sitting in SC when I moved and wanted to start filling up a Roth IRA for myself and my wife since her income will jump in a few years, but right now we have enough income to fully invest in one each. Wealthfront assesses your stomach for risk, where you're at in your life, then invest your money to fit. For me it's mostly Vanguard funds. Over 30 years most people agree that pinning to the market overall is the most reliable way to come out ahead of active investors and that's what Wealthfront is designed around. Mostly safe but hopefully reliable returns.
Nice. I'm already hooked with with an IMRF account from work; I've tried picking stocks on my own but usually sucked at it.
I've got a friend who has his CFP and CPWA or something. My other friend, just started a business and says he has his series 7 and 66. Is there a significant difference in the 2 if you were going to get some basic financial advice and maybe start a little portfolio or something?
Series 7 w/ 63 is the bare minimum to be able to solicit clients and trade stocks. Series 66 is like the 63 but allows you to charge a fee for managing a portfolio as an Advisor instead of commissions on trades. CFP is significantly more advanced. I don't know what the CPWA is. I had to look it up on Google.
the 65 I thought was the "series" one that lets you advise. I know those starting the advice path in my office get the 65 immediately and are expected to go for CFP at some point (promos past the entry level gig require it) ...
So I got a 2.5% raise this year and was considering bumping up my 401k contribution by 2%. Currently I contribute 6% and company essentially gives 7%, so I'd be jumping to 8% for me but their contribution is maxed out. Should I put the extra 2% into 401K or better to start an IRA or other account? 401K at work is run through prudential and I'm mostly in target date funds now.
401k vs IRA is a matter of personal preference. The difference will be fees and investment choices and 2 statements vs one. If you're considering a Roth vs 401k then it is a matter of predicting your current vs future tax rates (including what government does for tax policy). If you have no idea, Roth is probably a good idea because it gives more flexibility down the road and diversfies tax risk.
Leaning toward putting my emergency fund in a high yield online savings account or a low-risk portfolio on wealthfront. Anyone have a different strategy?
unfamiliar with wealth front, but sure if it's an FDIC covered bank try to get as much yield as possible with that ...
Don't you have to make less than $131k to contribute to a Roth? I doubt many people here are eligible.
I use Betterment's 'safety net' for my emergency fund. It's a 40/60 ratio of stocks/bonds. Then again, I know I won't ever lose my job, even if the market crashes and there's a huge recession. That would be the biggest concern in tying up your emergency fund in something like wealthfront or betterment. If the market crashes, could you lose your job? Because your emergency fund would be significantly depleted by that time as well.
I just checked and Roth income limits are $117K for 2016. What happens if you contribute to a Roth but wind up earning more than the limit? I won't, but I'm just curious. I'm not an economist or an accountant, but that seems like a fairly low limit, no?
Getting money out of the high-yield online account I opened once upon a time was way more trouble than it should have been, so my emergency fund is in a standard savings account at a bank different than my checking account. Not having a liquid emergency fund makes me uneasy.
To answer some other questions, I recently opened a Wealthfront account. I like it. Depending on how it performs, I may roll my Roth IRA into it.
Backdoor roths are still a thing so income limit is arbitrary if you'll do a little extra work. If potential wealthfront ers want extra 5k managed free make sure and use a referral link. Pm if you want mine.
Haven't done it because won't be over income for a few years but from my understanding you start a traditional ira, wait a month, convert to Roth. Few years ago they removed any barriers to conversion or income checks or anything. If you Google it there's tons of info on it.
Happened to me a few years ago. My shitty Edward Jones advisor was oblivious, but when I switched to northwestern mutual they pointed it out to me. Basically it was a last minute crunch to get the whole year of contributions out before 4/15.
That's all there is to it. Just contribute the Roth max to a traditional IRA. Wait a month, and then transfer the max amount you can contribute to a roth for that year rolling it over from your IRA. you have to do it every year. You can't (as my advisor thought incorrectly) contribute each year and then roll it all at once.
I've been using wealthfront for a while. Incredible how much it saved me on taxes and future capital gains through their tax loss harvesting. You can carry losses forward indefinately.
The amount you can contribute with tax free income is gradually reduced to zero. Also, it is based on your modified AGI, not your income.
This is true, as long as you don't a have a bunch of money in an Ira already. Then you would have to worry about the pro rata rule.
If I'm planning to buy a house next summer and currently have my down payment in a mutual fund (VBIAX), now would be a good time to exit and move that to a high-interest savings account, correct? The only thing keeping me from doing this is that I don't NEED to buy a house and I'm not even sure I will. So I hate giving up that potential upside. But that's the plan for now and it seems like now is the time to sell.
i put about 6% into a pension my employer gives, but i likely wont vest and only leave with the 3% interest they guarentee. i have the ability to pay separately into a 401k (on top of the 6%), but i am also paying off student loans at 4% now (variable) im in my late 20s, but considering im paying 6% now (and will roll it over when i go to another job in 2-3 years), i feel like i should focus more on the SL now because of it being variable. or i could always throw 1-2% into the 401k just for the hell of it... thoughts?